Companion fabrics: learning to combine correctly

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Many people like to combine several materials in one product. How to do it right?
Says the stylist, head of Wardrobe Rehab studio Oksana Bolbot.

Which fabrics can be combined with each other and which cannot?

In the photo: a dress with a flared skirt, a dress with raglan sleeves

When creating this or that product, first of all, it is necessary to focus on what effect you would like to produce. Will it be a soft, feminine look, classic and elegant or bold and daring? Only having decided strategically, proceed to tactics.

Looking for meaning

In the photo: a dress in a figure, a blouse with a satin collar

Each meaning of the image is supported by color, pattern (or lack thereof), texture and weight. The image can be naive and weightless, or vice versa, monumental and tough. It is precisely on the meanings that one should pay attention when choosing companion fabrics - does a pair of fabrics correspond to their meaning, will it be reflected in the cut? If everything matches - the ensemble will look just wonderful.

What are the signs of determining tissue compatibility?

In the photo: a leather jacket, skinny pants with a high waist

There are several techniques for combining fabrics.

Reception number 1: color chain

Conventionally, you look at the color gamut of the fabric and lay out the color into its components. For example, you buy malachite fabric, malachite is a yellow tone with a confident dose of blue. Accordingly, for us it’s a hint that fabrics of blue and yellow colors can become color companions to our ensemble.

Reception number 2: fabric weight

If you are sewing a product from two different fabrics, be aware that the weight and density of the fabric should match. If the elements of the costume will be on different layers of the ensemble, a match in density is not necessary.

Reception number 3: drawing

Over the past few years, the topic of combining drawings has become very relevant. How to choose drawings so that they harmonize well with each other? The rule is simple: if the motifs of the patterns for the companion fabrics are the same, then the size of the pattern should be different (for example, a blouse in a small cell, and trousers - in a large one), if the pattern is different, then the size must necessarily coincide!

What fabric combinations are relevant right now?

In the photo: a blouse with raglan sleeves (the pattern will appear on the site soon), a dress on one shoulder

This year, animal motifs are extremely relevant, while in one ensemble the print of a zebra and a jaguar can coexist. Small checkered fabrics are also very popular, all kinds of stripes, which season at the peak of popularity are held by large floral designs in the Baroque style.

What are the rules for combining fabrics?

In the photo: fitted coat, dress with silk sleeves, Japanese-style coat

If we are talking about combinations of fabrics in a multi-layered format, then the rule is very simple - the closer the layer of clothing to the body, the thinner the fabric, and then increase. Multilayer ensembles with a combination of different patterns look very interesting, but this is aerobatics, assuming a good sense of rhythm and color. Better start with solid ensembles by adding a single pattern to them. By the way, in order for the layering to look interesting, do not forget that the textures of the fabrics must be different.

Are there any limitations in combinations of fabrics by type of figure? What type of figure which fabrics are best combined?

In the photo: a straight coat, a coat with a hood, a coat of velor and fur

As you know, a pattern is a good optical illusion that can help both to lengthen the legs and make them visually more palatable. So with the rest of the body. Remember that it is extremely important for each of us to know the most beneficial points of the body, which will always be at the center of the compositional solution of the costume.Next, we focus on weight - if you are fragile, give preference to thin fabrics with non-contrasting patterns, middle-aged girls will prefer vertical stripes, but chubby it is important to choose fabrics with a pattern very carefully, giving preference to more dense textures, case cut.

A bit of practice

In a combination of textures, as well as in a combination of drawings or colors, there is always a dialogue in a costume ensemble when the idea of the most significant thing in the ensemble is developed either by the principle of contrast or by the principle of support. We propose to consider the principle of such interaction on the example of several models.

Example No. 1

F / W 2015−2016, Mexico MBFW

The massiveness and volume of the suede jacket is supported by the dullness of the linen dress. In this case, the ensemble would look boring if the color of the jacket and dress coincided. As a rule, if the textures are approximately similar in format, they should be divided by color. By the way, the metallic coating on the shoes also favorably emphasizes the velvety texture of the jacket and dress. What is interesting - 2 methods are used: the method of contrasting (smooth, metallic surface of shoes and matte fabrics in the ensemble), the principle of kinship - approximately the same texture of the jacket and dress is “broken” by color.

Example No. 2

Pink Magnolia F / W 2015−2016, Mexico MBFW

The same principle - on the one hand, the costume ensemble is built on the principle of balanced proportions. If you look, the jumper and pencil skirt are ½ to ½ proportions. In the case of full coincidence of color and texture, such an image would look frankly boring. What do designers do? On the one hand, they contrast the metallized sheen of brocade with the matte texture of cashmere, and on the other hand, they combine such different textures with a color spot: notice how the tone of the scarf matches the tone of the pattern on the skirt.

Example No. 3

Alejandro Carlin F / W 2015−2016, Mexico MBFW

Another extremely interesting topic - how to combine fur with fabric? In fact, fur always suppresses any texture with its heaviness and picturesqueness, therefore fabrics with a pronounced texture, gloss, color can look too elaborate and can not cope with the aesthetic task. In this case, it turned out quite successfully to stylize sheepskin fur with a thin coarse-haired fabric - the small roughness of the woolen cloth of the skirt is good friends with the velvety and dullness of the sheepskin, creating a complex stylistic pair, in which the jacket is clearly predominant.

Example No. 4

Page F / W 2015−2016, Mexico MBFW

Fabrics with a hard, satin sheen are extremely demanding of a companion: on the one hand, the color of the fabric in pairs should be sharp, have a sharpness that will look good with an icy shine of satin. On the other hand, the texture of this companion fabric should not attract attention, because in an ensemble with satin elements, the most important role will always be given to brilliance.

Example No. 5

Page F / W 2015−2016, Mexico MBFW

We are often asked the question: with what to combine things from neoprene? This ultramodern and fashionable fabric looks extremely interesting in a cut - the heaviness and density of neoprene creates almost fabulous, mystical outlines. On the other hand, due to its weight, neoprene is extremely demanding on the adjacent texture: perhaps only dense knitwear and rough skin can become a worthy partner in a costume ensemble. As, for example, in the photo above, the knitted elastic at the dress even more clearly shows the structure of the image.

Oksana Bolbot - leader and ideological inspirer Image Studios Wardrobe Rehab, developed a system of independent work on an individual style and presented it on online resources. Simple and effective WR programs were very popular with users, and literally in a year, Wardrobe Rehab sites were among the hundred most visited female-related resources in our country. In July 2011, Oksana opened a studio Wr in Moscow, where anyone can get a consultation on the style, including an analysis of the color of the exterior, such as the shape and face, the selection of the best styles, accessories, the analysis of the wardrobe and the formation of a stylish image.You can see examples of the works of Oksana and her fellow stylists in the section of the website of the same name. Professional way:

2002 - 2005 Central Saint Martins College of Arts & Design, London
2008 - 2011 held leading positions in the field of image and PR consulting of large domestic and western companies
2009 entered the top 10 leading experts in image consulting according to the magazine "White Business"
In 2010 - 2012, a teacher at the school of stylists "Persona"
In 2011, she founded an image studio Wardrobe rehab
From 2013 to the present, he has been developing the project in Russia and Latin America

Photo: Irina Krokhaleva for the Wardrobe Rehab project at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week F / W, 2015−2016 in Mexico City, BurdaStyle.ru Material was prepared by Anna Soboleva

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