A stylish and practical trench coat sewn according to the Burda pattern will become an irreplaceable thing in a spring wardrobe.
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The trench coat is stylish and at the same time very versatile and practical thing in the wardrobe. The main distinguishing features of this cloak are a large turn-down double-breasted collar, shoulder straps, cuffs and a belt. Also, this cloak features two rows of buttons on both shelves.
For sewing trench coats, as a rule, use rigid waterproof fabrics: cotton twill, gabardine and other fabrics with special impregnation.
Made in classic colors (black, white, all shades of beige), the trench coat will look stylish for several seasons, allowing you to create many completely different images - from elegant to sporty.
In this master class we will sew a trench coat on pattern 113 from Burda 9/2010.
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You will need (for size 40):
- cotton twill 3.15 m wide 150 cm
- lining fabric 1.75 m wide 140 cm
- non-woven
- 16 buttons
- 2 flat buttons for an internal fastener
- 1 belt buckle 6 cm high
Step 1. Pockets
1. Cut each shelf in the middle between the dart lines, and finish by approx. 3 cm above the upper cross mark and approx. 1 cm below the bottom cross mark.
2. For one duplicated and non-duplicated laying of the part details, grind the leaves with the front sides, leaving the stitching sections open. Turn out the leaflet and stitch the edge.
3. Stitch the leaflet to the front line of the tuck between the transverse marks and so that the leaflet is directed forward (that is, to the center of the front).
Stitched leaf from the wrong side 
Stitched leaflet on the front side 4. Stitch the burlap of the pocket from the main fabric opposite the leaflet to the lateral line of the tuck so that the burlap is directed towards the side seam.
Front pocket burlap 
Front pocket burlap 5. Start tucking above the upper cross mark and below the lower cross mark.
6. Pull the burlap pocket on the wrong side, flatten the tuck flatly. Iron the leaf over the entrance to the pocket.
7. To grind the burlap of the pocket from the lining fabric to the seam allowances of the sewing of the leaflet, iron it forward. Burlap pockets to level and grind.
8. Postpone the leaflet at both ends to transverse marks along the existing finishing line close to the line.
Step 2. Tucks
Stitch shoulder tucks on the backs, iron the depths of the tucks to the line of the middle of the back. Lay the crease on the back in the direction of the arrow and iron. At the neck sweep.
On the front side, the fold is laid inward.
Step 3. Coquette backrest
On the bottom cut of the back yoke, iron the edge of the allowance by 1 cm.
On the line of the middle of the back, unscrew the allowance on the front side and grind obliquely as a tuck. Flatten the tuck depth.
Unscrew the allowance on the wrong side and sweep. Stitch the bottom edge of the coquette to the edge and at a distance of 1 cm.
Place the yoke on the back side of the back, sweep along the shoulder sections and armholes, as indicated in the photo below.
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Step 4. Shelf flyback
Fold the parts of the take-off coquette of the shelf with the front sides, grind along the front and bottom sections. Seam allowances close to the stitch. Unscrew the yoke.Stitch the edges to the edge and at a distance of 1 cm.
Place the yoke on the left shelf and sweep along the neckline, shoulder section, armhole section and side section.
Step 5. Lateral and shoulder seams
Stitch side and shoulder seams on the trench. Also grind shoulder sections on the flanges and neckline.
Step 6. The sides and collar
Pin the trim and trim to the trench coat with the front side to the front side. Stitch along sections of the sides and neck to the midline line.
Leave the trim and trim while lying on the trench with the front side to the front side.
Stitch the collar details along the outer cuts with the front side facing the front side. To turn out a collar, to iron. Stitch the edges of the collar. Fold the collar stand details with the front sides, grasping the collar. Lay a line along the front and upper sections of the rack, starting and ending the line exactly at the marked seam line of the sewing in.
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To turn out a rack. For a hanger, sew a belt loop 5 cm long and 7 mm wide in finished form.
Insert the collar between the trench coat and edging. Stitch the bottom collar (which will be on the front when wearing) to the neck, the rack of the upper collar (which will be on the wrong side of the toe) - in the pick and hem, putting a loops for the coat hanger between the front sides of the rack and the hem.
Unscrew the pick-up and trim to the wrong side. Accurately chop the seams of the stitching of the rack. Stitch the rack along the contour.
Step 7. Epaulettes
For one duplicated and non-duplicated details of each shoulder strap folded with the front sides, cut one end with a corner. Sew longitudinal and acute-angled sections. Turn out. Shoulder strap to delay.
On each loops for shoulder straps, trim longitudinal sections and iron 1 cm wide. Stitch edges to edge.
Put the belt loop at a distance of 6 cm from the marked line of the armhole and cross over the shoulder strap, tighten the ends of the belt loop and sew on.
Shoulder strap on shoulder seam. Take to the armhole. Pass the epaulettes under the belt loops.
Step 8. Sleeves
On the sleeves, perform elbow sutures. Stitch the front half of each sleeve along the seam.
Fold the details of each sleeve of the sleeves with the front sides and grind the longitudinal sections and one short section. Turn out. Stitch the stitch to the edge. Mark the front of the sleeve between the transverse marks with the heel.
Run elbow sutures of the sleeves. Iron the hem allowance for the bottom of the sleeves to the wrong side and sew by hand. Stitch the sleeves by fitting them around the steps.
Step 9. Belt loops
Sew belt loops in the same way as pogo loops. Pin the loops over the side seams according to the marking, turn the ends of the loops and stitch them to the edge.
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Step 10. Lining
On the back of the lining, sew on top for a length of approx. 10 cm fold for loose fitting. Press the top of the fold flat so that the seam coincides with the line of the middle of the fold. On the lining, grind tucks and sew seams. Stitch sleeves in the lining.
Tighten the hem allowance for the bottom of the lining and stitch so that the lining is 2 cm shorter than the trench coat.
Stitch the lining to the inner sections of the bends with the front side to the front side.
Turn out the product. As a result, the lining will be the seamy side of the trench coat and the seamy side. Insert lining sleeves into trench coat sleeves.
Turn the lining of the sleeves so that the lining is 1–2 cm shorter than the sleeves and secure with pins.
Turn sleeves to the wrong side. Combine sections of sleeves and lining, remove pins. Stitch along the slices.
Sew the seam to the hem.
The bending of the selection is done at a slight angle, taking into account the difference in the length of the trench coat and the length of the lining.
Sew the sides and neck to the hem of the stitching of the collar to the edge and at a distance of 1 cm.
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Step 11. Loops and buttons
On the right shelf, overcast the loops.On the left shelf, overcast small loops for the flat buttons of the inner closure at about waist level. Sew buttons according to the buttonhole.
On shoulder straps and flap valves, overcast loops. Sew buttons according to the buttonhole.
Overcast stitches on sleeve sleeves. Sew buttons on the sleeves to the sleeves, at the same time at 3 cm intervals to adjust the width of the sleeves.
Step 12. Belt
Fold the belt along the front side inwards, grind the middle sections, leaving one end open. Turn out. At a distance of 2 - 2.5 cm from the open end cut, punch two holes for the buckle pegs. Thread the belt into the buckle, tuck and sew.
For the fastener, install the eyelets, trying on a belt.
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Programmer by education, Julia became interested in sewing more than 9 years ago. Starting to sew simple models on Burda magazines, she gradually gained quite a lot of experience in this direction. Studying numerous materials on the Internet and specialized literature on sewing, she independently mastered the technology of processing various materials and sewing various types of clothes.
Julia’s works can be viewed on her Instagram page.
