Sheath dress collects a figure, making its outlines more seductive. Even in strict execution, it perfectly emphasizes all the advantages of its owner.
And if you correctly place the accents in a sheath dress with the help of decorative elements - the effect will be stunning!
What is Basque
A peplum is a frill or flounce along the waistline that helps visually adjust the figure and adds grace to even a dress or costume that is simple in cut.
In this master class, I will show how, using simple modeling, you can change the pattern of dress 124 from Burda 8/2016.
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Other Burda models that can be used as a base pattern:
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Prepare a dress pattern. If necessary, make necessary body adjustments as recommended by Burda.
How to shorten a pattern
How to reduce the pattern
How to enlarge a pattern
You will need:
- tracing paper;
- pencil or marker;
- ruler and tailor's patterns;
- masking tape or weights to fix the pattern;
- scissors for paper.
Prepare a dress pattern.
Step 1
The model of the dress that I chose has pockets with a cutting barrel. These pockets can protrude and will "argue" with the Basques. I replaced them with pockets in the side seam. You can refuse pockets altogether by changing the pattern as I will show below.
According to the model, the skirt has no tucks in front. On the pattern, the line of entry into the pocket on the details of the front half of the skirt is longer than on the details of the burlap - detachable barrel. Thus, the waist line is transferred to the pocket entry line. You can carry out the reverse procedure - to complete the tuck on the front halves.
Place the parts of the front half and the cutting barrel on top of each other, aligning along the upper and side slices.
Step 2
Place a sheet of tracing paper on top of the pattern. Mark the waist line where the alignment line and the edge of the pocket entrance go.
From the middle point between these marks, lower the line parallel to the midline on the front half of the skirt. This line is the middle of the tuck.
Note: Typically, the waist tuck is located closer to the center. Here she is shifted to the side seam, so that when attaching the skirt to the bodice of the dress, she docked with the seam of attaching the detachable barrel on the bodice, forming a single line.
The length of the tuck is 10−12 cm. Put a mark on the top of the tuck.
Mark on the waist with the top of the tuck. Now it remains to clarify the upper cut of the skirt. The sides of the tuck should be the same. It is necessary to measure the lateral side of the tuck and extend the short side up. Then arrange the upper cut of the skirt, taking into account the adjustment.
Step 3
Mark pocket entry in side seam. It can start from the waistline or 2-3 cm lower. The length of the entrance to the pocket is 15-16 cm. The detail of the cutting barrel can be used for cutting both burlap pockets in the side seam.
Basque modeling
Step 4
Place the detail of the back half of the skirt on a piece of paper or tracing paper. Circle the middle seam of the back half, the upper section of the skirt to the waist tuck and one side of the tuck.
Put on the back half of the skirt again, combining the sides of the waist tuck, closing it. Circle the upper section of the skirt to the side seam and side seam.
Step 5
Apply the front half of the skirt, aligning the upper part of the side seams of the front and rear halves. Circle the side seam, the upper cut to the tuck and one side of the tuck.
Similarly, circle the middle part of the front half of the skirt, closing the waist tuck. Mark the direction of the peplum as in the front half of the skirt. The basis for modeling the Basques is ready.
Photo: pinterest
Step 6: 1 option
Basque fits the hips without expanding downward, in front of the center end-to-end with a bevel, imitating a jacket. The back of the peplum does not enter the middle seam.
Put a sheet of tracing paper on the basis of the simulation, circle the part along the upper cut, deviate 2 cm from the midline, draw a bevel in the middle of the basque. 2–3 cm to deviate from the midline of the back half of the skirt. Draw the width of the Basque arbitrarily. In my case, the center of the shelf and backrest is 11 cm wide, narrowing to 9 cm to the side seam.
Step 7: Option 2
Basque, without extension on the hips, in the central part with an overlap.
Put a sheet of tracing paper on the basis of the simulation, circle the part along the line of the middle of the back half, the upper cut. The width of the basques is arbitrary, in my example 13 cm. Draw the lower edge parallel to the upper cut.
Fold a sheet of tracing paper along the line of the middle of the front half of the skirt, draw a rounded edge of the basques to the tuck.
In finished form, the edges of the basques overlap to the waist darts. The lobar thread runs in the middle of the back of the basques.
You can additionally make a flare on the bottom of the Basques, giving it great splendor. This technique will be shown in step 10.
Step 8: Option 3
Asymmetric peplum, with a slight flare.
Put a sheet of tracing paper on the basis of the simulation, circle the part along the line of the middle of the back half, the upper cut. The width of the basque is arbitrary, in my example 13 cm. Draw the lower edge parallel to the upper cut, with a slight extension to the midline.
Fold the tracing paper along the line of the middle of the front, circle the upper cut to the tuck, set aside 19 cm in the tuck down.
Seamlessly connect the bottom.
Step 9
Similarly, circle the second part of the Basques, only until they are tucked on the front half of the skirt.
The layout of the Basques in finished form. The lobar thread runs in the middle of the back of the basques.
Step 10
If desired, the Basques can be made flared at the bottom. To do this, it is necessary to cut the details of the basque across symmetrically, to separate it in the places of the cut by a small amount.Greater volume can be given in all areas of the basques or only at the back and from the side of the side seams.
Simulation completed. Cut out your favorite or several types of basques from calico. Try on and choose the option that is most suitable for your figure, dress model and idea. The width and shape of the basques can be adjusted on the layout. After that, you can cut out the details of the Basques from the main fabric.
The author of the master class and photo: Elena Lenkova
Lena has a higher and special education - a tailor of outerwear for men, women and children.
In clothes, he appreciates the individuality and thoughtfulness of the image, the originality of the cut. He likes to analyze modeling techniques and product processing technology. He leads his Instagram page, where a marathon for sewing New Year's dresses is being held. Many people know Lena as a longtime user of the BurdaStyle.ru website.
"The quality of processing and the interior decoration of the product are integral aspects of sewing."
Material prepared by Julia Dekanova
