When sewing classic trousers, as well as models in jeans style, you can not do without codpiece. We reveal the secret of a simple and beautiful way of processing this node - a codpiece with a curly bend.
The figured slope is not only a beautiful part of the wrong side, but also a functional element of the fastener of the trousers, which allows to avoid deformation of the outer loop and pulling out the buttons.
In order to properly process the fastener of the trousers, it is necessary to prepare the front halves of the trousers, overlay them and process the pockets, as well as cut out the codpiece casing, the slope and the lining of the bounce.
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You will need:
- lining fabric;
- adhesive doublerin;
- trouser zipper;
- disappearing marker for fabric or tailor's chalk;
- needles and threads for sewing, tailor pins, scissors, ruler.
Step 1
Duplicate the details of the codpiece and bounce duplicate.
Step 2
To make a curly slope: put the part from the lining fabric to the ejection part with the front side to the front side and grind along the curly edge, then cut the allowance close to the stitch, unscrew the slope and iron.
Step 3
From the lining fabric, make a slanting inlay for processing the bounce and turning.
Important!
To process the details of bending and turning the codpiece to the oblique inlay with an open cut: the part of the turning on the curly side, the detail of the bending on the side of a straight vertical cut.
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Step 4
In women's trousers, the location of the codpiece is usually used from right to left, but the opposite direction is also allowed. I chose the location from left to right, because in all my trousers it’s the direction I’m so used to. Therefore, I have a hem on the left half of the trousers, and a curly slope on the right.
Important!
It is necessary to determine the location of the codpiece at the cutting stage and tailor the details taking into account the chosen direction.
Step 5
Notch the middle sections just above the bend, notches should be located 1.5 - 2 cm above the length of the details of the facing and the bend of the codpiece.
Step 6
For the convenience of performing further operations, outline the outline of the hem from the front of the left half of the trousers.
Step 7
Place the hem on the left half of the trousers with the right side facing the front side, aligning the straight edge of the edge with the middle edge, chop or sweep. Lay the stitch to the notch, stepping aside 1 mm from it.
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Step 8
Lay the finishing stitch along the turning at a distance of ~ 1−2 mm from the seam, capturing the allowance, the stitch width is approx. 3 mm. Unscrew the inside out and iron.
Step 9
Let's move on to the right half of the trousers. Iron the mid-cut allowance above the notch on the wrong side. And also equalize the burlap of the pocket with the fold.
Step 10
Attach the zipper to the bend along the straight edge with the wrong side to the front side and stitch it, not reaching the bottom 1-1.5 cm.
Step 11
Place the right half of the trousers in such a way that the fold is positioned along the zipper and lay a stitch at a distance of 2-3 mm from the fold, capturing part of the burlap from the inside. Stitch width approx. 3 mm.
Step 12
Fold the right and left halves of the trousers the front side to the front side, combining the notches, and also observing a small skid (offset), so that the stitch is located a little further than the stitch of the zipper.
Make the middle seam, starting 2 cm from the stepping sections of the halves of the trousers and ending 1 cm above the notches.
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Step 13
On the wrong side of the trousers, unscrew the codpiece casing with a zipper and pin it. To turn off the slope of the codpiece. It turns out that the lightning lies on the facing with the front side to the front side.Lay a line along the zipper tape.
Step 14
On the front side of the trousers, fasten the hem: lay a line, departing 8-10 mm from the line marked in paragraph 6 and grab the inside of the hem and burlap of the pocket. In this case, the slope of the codpiece from the inside should be turned to the side so that it does not fall into the seam. Complete the line just above the fillet point.
Step 15
From the wrong side, unscrew the slope under the hem and continue the stitch, rounding it to the middle seam and grabbing both the hem and the slope, stitch width approx. 3 mm. Put two brackets: at the beginning of the line connecting the hem and slope, and 1.5−2 cm above the connecting line.
Step 16
The codpiece is ready.
Step 17
A codpiece in ready-made trousers: an additional button is sewn from the inside of the belt, and a loop is made above the bend. Thus, the load is removed from the main button and the loop of the trousers, and the loop is not deformed.
The author of the master class and photo: Daria Tabatchikova
By education, Daria is a PR specialist and economist, but several years ago she devoted herself entirely to her favorite business - sewing.
She learned to sew from magazines, books and using the Internet, there are also sewing courses in the arsenal, but Daria considers herself to be self-taught. She loves to study specialized sewing literature from different years and countries, and then put her knowledge into practice.
At the end of 2017, Daria became the winner of the festive contest from BurdaStyle.ru.
She leads her Instagram page and VKontakte group.
Material prepared by Julia Dekanova
